Andamans-Lime Cave and my Marriage

In 1988, Baratang was never a tourist spot. No one knew, there is a Lime Cave and Parrot Islands.  Erruption of mud vulcano and Beach at Baludera made it important tourist spot in the recent past.  Last year when I went Baratang, I saw the craze of people for Lime Cave and Mud Vulcano.  In olden time, Baratang was most unwanted place to live at. When we go Baratang, we tell our children that my Barat had gone to a Forest Camp near the Lime Cave.  The name of the Camp was Middle Strait Forest Camp which was diagonally opposite to the present Middle Strait Jetty. My wife was then a Primary School Teacher in the Primary School at Middle Strait Forest Camp. My Step Father in Law, one Maternal Uncle and my own Uncle, who were employed in the Forest Department were also posted there. On 30th April 1988, after our marriage was blessed in the Church. we went with barat to that place. After we reached there in the evening, all baraties had a nice tribal dance.  My friends from Port Blair who had come to attend my marriage also participated in the dance and enjoyed it.  But the sad part of the ceremony was that due to some enmity, people of that camp delayed the programme of reception and dinner.  The baraties were too angry and refused to take their dinner.  It was difficult time for me to arrange for dinner for my friends.  I approached my Maternal Aunti who had some rice and dal and my friends had to satisfy with it. In the early morning, I along with my wife travelled on foot to my village. My friends still remember my Marriage. My wife says they use to visit  Lime Cave frequently. I feel little privileged that that place has become so important now.

A Visit to Ranchi

All chotanagpurians, whether he hails from Jharkhand, Orissa, West Bengal or Chattisgarh, they are commonly known as "Ranchiwala".  When I came Delhi in 1985, I had a desire to visit Ranchi from where my father belonged. During the childhood, we had heard much about our ancestral place. It was June, 1987 when I finally landed to Ranchi.  I had a friend Tobias Tirkey working in a Post Office. Just a few years back, he had come to Ranchi on transfer from Port Blair.  I requested him to accompany him to my village, because he also belonged to same place.  He agreed and on the appointed day we started for Simdega.  It was early morning and weather was fine.  We reached a place called Kolebira from where we had to change the bus.  We boarded in a bus of Bihar State Transport Corporation. The condition of the Bus was very pathetic. The roof of the bus was just like open sky. The bus was almost in two pieces so when the driver put a break, half portion will go ahead and rear portion will just push it.  Suddenly, the rain started and every body took their umbrella out in the bus. The conductor came and collected Rs. 3/- per person but didnot issue any tickets.  After travelling a little distance, the bus got struck to a muddy place and even after efforts, it could not be rescued. So we came out of bus.  All the passengers also came out and started demanding refund of money.  The Conductor refunded 50 paise to every passenger and my friend too took back Rs.1/-.

     We had look for another vehicle.  People told us that it will take an hour to reach Simdega on foot but incidentally, one Truck came and took us on board. We reached Simdega and met some people who had come from Andamans. I met one of my class-mate too. After having lunch, we took another bus for my village called Banabira.  We were totally stranger so neither any body asked us nor we spoke to anyone.  My friend asked me to got down at one lonely place.  There were no one to ask but we could see one person coming from field.  We told him that we want to go to Banabira, so which way to go?  Pointing his fingers, he told us to go through a "road". I just had a look on surrounding but except one, no road was there.  My friend then explained me that the people call the " kutcha road or pagdandi" as road.  We started moving on feet.  My friend told me that we had to cross two rivers, one small and another somewhat bigger.  One river we crossed without any difficulties.  Before we could reach another, we met few students coming from School. On our asking, they told that the water level is upto knee only.  When we started crossing the river, the water level was not upto the knee but upto the waist. There was a village on the bank of river and people started laughing on us.  Perhaps, we had followed a wrong path to cross the river.

     Till we crossed the long village, everyone was inquiring as to where we were going. We asked villager as to which way to go for Banabira and one fellow told us just reach the small stone hill, it was very near to that. But it was not less than 5 k.m. When we reached there we could find only few boys looking after their animals.  We again enquired from them and they told us to cross a big farm land which was again 5.k.m. long.
We had already travelled some 15-17 k.m. and almost getting tired. When we crossed the farms, we asked another person about the house of my maternal uncle.  He pointed out towards a house and said just get right turn from the "Deviguri".  This was again a strange word for me.  My friend explained that, tribal people's worship place is called "Deviguri".  When we reached my maternal uncle's home, we found only few ladies. We were told that my maternal uncle has gone to work and come only after sometime.  No one asked to sit so we kept standing outside.  We were so tired that I lost my patience told them that I am coming to this house only.  My cousin sister and maternal aunti were also there, so they  immediately guessed my name and asked us to sit on a mate.  According to tribal customs, our legs were washed and gave us water to drink.  We slept early on that day but next day my maternal uncle arranged a big party ( to my belief beyond his capability).  In the evening, we went to my father's house.  To my surprise, the house and Aangan was already     filled with people.  Every one had news that someone from Andamans has come.  I had taken two packets of choclates but it was not sufficient.

    We were treated like any thing but next day we had to come back to Ranchi. When I visit there, I find people have alienated themselves but I still remember my first visit. I remember the simplicity and give away nature of tribal.  Often I tell jokingly tell this instance to my friends too.

My sweet Experience with Secretariat Service

When one lives in a remote area, he has always a dream to see and experience the life of a City.  Port Blair was a small city, so there was lot of anxiety in my mind when I was to join Ministry of Communications in the year 1985.  I was perhaps the first to qualify any competitive examination conducted by Union Public Service Commission and therefore I had already got a lot of publicity. Since population was less in Port Blair and most of the people know each other, every day I had to face the question as when I was going to join a Ministry.  I was already working in Indian Oil and was getting handsome salary with many perks, so at one point of time, I thought to stay back because in 1985, the pay scale of an Assistant Rs. 425-800/- and many were of the opinion that with the salary of an Assistant, it would be difficult manage the expenses.  It was only the pursuation of my College Principal, Dr. A.V.V. Iyer who was my Guru and Mentor and even worked under him for about 18 months as a Lower Grade Clerk, I finally decided to join CSS and resigned my job of Indian Oil.

I had earlier visited Chennai and Kolkata so I knew the complexity of life in Metro, I was cheated by the Auto driver on the day I landed in Delhi.  I knew no one in Delhi. One of my senior in college wrote a letter for Mr. Hemraj Bahadur who was also my senior and posted here as Public Relation Officer in Andaman House. He was kind enough to give me a room for few days. On 14th of October, 2010 I had join my new assignment, so Mr. Pritam who works in Andaman House dropped me at Sanchar Bhavan. I went to Administration Section of the Ministry. I found one person sitting at the back of a hall. I approached him and told him that I have come here to report for my duties. He asked me to sit and offered me a cup of coffee. I thought, he might be an Assistant too but subsequently he told me that he was the Section Officer. It was little surprising for me because officers in small places like Andaman are  provided with a separate room. After few minutes, my counter-part also came and after completing some formalities, I was alloted to Department of Posts.

Next was the Administration Section of Department of Posts. I was posted to a Staff Section(Administration). The Section Officer there told me to occupy a seat full of dusts, files and  many bundle of papers.  Though I had already worked in a Government office, I could not understand how to start with.  The Section was dealing personnel matters of Group C employess of Postal Department. I  consulted my neighbour who without seing the papers advised me to call for reports from Circle offices and issue reminders in all pending files.  Where ever, I sent a reminder, I got a reply that report has already already been sent. The next problem was as to how to locate the earlier papers? I asked the Diarist to see whether the letter has been received it. He promptly searched the Diary Register and informed me that the letter is marked to "VS".  I asked him what is this VS and he replied that it is "Vacant Seat". In fact due to heavy work load on the seat where I was posted, no other Assistants were willing to join and the post remained vacant for more than six months. The Section Officer had perhaps no option but to keep the some receipts pending. I had already understood the job of Assistants so quietly started making efforts to linking papers in respective files but my four other colleages started giving me some files which they had dealt with during the vacancy. It took about three months to sort out all backlog. I started enjoying the work too because Assistant had a liberty to suggest and express his view points on many issues for consideration by the Seniors in the hieararchy. I found that one good suggestion from an Assistant can have much wider impact and can bring changes in the life of many. It was really a enjoyable to number the receipts and notes, put flags in a file. When a particular file is fully ready, I use to feel pride that I have done something and once my suggestions or proposals were approved, it gave me immense pleasure and satisfaction. Even during the time when I worked as an Lower Grade Clerk in Andamans, I had realized that even if a Clerk has will to initiate something new, many things can happen. During our College days we had submitted a number of demands to Administration like repairing of hostels, increase of hostel stipend and grant of concessional travel fares etc. When I joined as Clerk I found all those memorandums lying in a file. But when I started putting up every such cases to concerned authorities, many of the proposals were accepted.

There is a set language pattern in the Secretariat. Being a Post Graduate in English, initially I had too literary bent to mind but after working for few years, it was no more. The words like "PUC", "FR" and "DFA"  may be something like new formula for new comers to Secretariat.  Many new comer often write "DFA" submitted  for approval". They have to be told that "DFA itself means draft submitted for approval". Flagging is another artistic feature of a file. Once, I asked a newly appointed peon to bring some flags. After sometime, he came with "F shape flags". I told him this is not the flags we require and he insited "Sahab flag to aisa hi hota hai".
This is one of the memorable incident. I was SO at that time and had to attend a meeting so by the time the meeting was over it was 6.30 p.m. When I came to Section to collect my bag, one of Assistant was playing cards on the PC. I just asked him "Ghar nahi jana hai kya? He simply answered " Choro Sir, ghar jate hi shrimatiji thaila pakra degi aur kahegi sabji le ana. chai to bad mein puchte hai gharwale. I could not stop myself laughing on his reply.
In the Secretariat we use many abbreviation like "FR" "PUC", DFA, UO Note. ID Note. Once a Engineering Services Officer was posted as my Director. He had never worked in Central Secretariat so often he will write small remarks on file" DFA approved" or "DFA submitted for approval" or PUC is for consideration". After some hesitation, I explained him DFA itself means Draft for approval and PUC means Paper Under Consideration. He just looked on my face as if I have solved some puzzle for him.
When I joined DoT, old people in the section use to share story of one SO.In olden times, there was a Coffee House at existing Plika Bazar and office timing was from 10 to 4. That SO never use to go home directly hurriedly as many people do. He will go to Coffee House sweep leisurely two cups of coffee in a time span of about one and half hour and reach home late. As he will reach home he will start saying, " aaj to assi mar gaye ji, puccho mat bada kam karna paya, sade nu headache ho raha haiga." Before, his wife could tell some household work, " he will ask wife" Tusi is tarah karo, mathe nu jara garam tel laga dehhi".

An Unforgetable Childhood in Baratang Islands

 Think of a situation - You are made to settle in new village surrounded by dense tropical forests and the Islands itself is surrounded by water. The next Island close to it, hardly 200 meter away is inhabitated by dangerous tribe and you are more or less cutoff from the civil world. - Yes, this was the situation in 1960 when my father was made to settle down in Bamboonalla village (Kanchan Garh) of Baratant Islands under the Rehabilitation Scheme of Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India. My father hailed from present Jharkhand State and in search of livelihood went to Andman and Nicobar Islands in the year 1955. Subsequently he opted for settlement under the Rehabilitation Scheme of Government. My father was given a piece of some ten Acres of land two buffalows and a small hut to live in. I was born in the year 1961 and lived a memorable life in this Island.

Journey by a Dongy from Oral Katcha to my village

          

There were only eight revenue villages where people mostly from Jharkhand(previously Bihar) and Madhya Pradesh(now Chhattisgarh) had settled down. There was a small village of Bengalies. Inspite of being a remote and inaccessible area, a few from Kerala and Tamil Nadu had ventured to settle down in this Islands and started their business. The catholic priests of Society of St. Xavier (SFX) had also opened a Church at Oral Katcha. Rest there were some Forest Camps and Public Works Department camps inhabited by Labourers, mostly from Jharkhand, Chhatisgarh and Tamil Nadu. There were a few fishermen from Andhra Pradesh.Subsequently in the year 1973-74, some more revenue villages were created to accommodate the extended famililies of people who had already settled there in 1960.

Kanchan Garh Village on Wikimapia
 My village had eleven families, mostly from Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh. They all were unknown to each other but soon they developed a bond of human relationship made the village their own.The main crops being produced was rice. Apart from cultivation of rice, villagers use to grow bananas and various vegetables. The land was virgin so fertile to produce. In jungles, the two wild animals were Deer and Wild Bore(Pig). Since the village is very near to sea, variety and plenty of fishes and prawns were available.The rainy seasonused tobe so long as of six months duration.

Oral Katcha Jetty

    
The connectivity between Port Blair (Capital) and Baratang was weekly or bi-weekly ferry(boat) services. As children, we use to run to the jetty(Port) to see the small ship which may carry people from Port Blair to Rangat via Baratang, Kadamtala and Long Island. On the next day, the ship will again return to Port Blair. People use to call is as "boat day", because most of the villagers will bring their produce to sell it at the jetty. Even during school days, we use to skip from classes and go to Jetty to see the ship and people.

There were only four primary schools, one at Oral Katcha, one at South Creek, one at Jarwa Creek and another at Plat Bay. Almost all schools had single teacher at the beginning. We use to travel to school bare foot. Rainy season was worst because we had to pass through muddy way. During rainy the the two nallah(small river) use to overflow. It was sometime dangerous but full of excitement too. We had to pass through the jungle, so often we were scarred of Elephants also. The forest Department used to engage these Elephants for transportation and loading/unloading of huge logs. In the afternoon, these elephants were left in forests so that they could feed themselves in the forests where plenty of food were available. Though, there use to be a bell tied on the neck of the Elephant but still it use to play mischief. Our journey to School and back was never boring but always had some fun and excitement. Before start of summer, we use to collect some jungle fruits like "Kendu" , "Bour" and " Kusum" and exchange these with the snacks given in the schools from those boys who were living around school. Sometime, we may either indulge ouselves in fishing, catching crabs or catching birds before we finally return home in the evening. All Teachers were from mainland so after summer vacation, student never know when the school will re-open. This is because teacher used to visit mainland during vacation and their retun to their respective schools was dependent on availability of ships from Calcutta/Madras to Port Blair.

Inspite of people hailing from different states of India, there was a feeling strong togetherness in all walk of life, whether it be a socil, religious or family one. As a children, we never hesitated to enter anybody's house. We often carry with us some rice, milk or vegetables while we go to schools to sell it . There were people who will call us and give us to whatsoever they had. South Indians people use to give us Dosa or Idli. People from Jharkhand often give us Rice and Dal out of their love, which I still remember.

Inspite of the fact that teachers were also from mainland and some of them even left their family behind, they were sincere towards their duties. Some classes were run on huts made of wood and leaves and during rainy season it was difficult to have classes, so on rainy days often classes were suspended. Apart from our teachers, the priests working in the Catholic Church also use to take interest in our learning process. I remember, one Priest Fr. T.Pais use to take moral class before start of school each days. He use to tell us some stories having moral teachings. Often he will give us sweets. He had also formed a Association of Children, namely "Bal Sangh". This was another platform where we had chance learn many new things from priests and nuns.

The another aspect of the life was that the population was very less so we never had chance to see crowds. We could see some small crowds on "boat days" or on sundays. Since most of the people were Catholics, so church use to be full for the Sunday. The most crowdy days in the Islands used to be on Christmas night, Easter night, Independence Day and 26th January. We use to wait for these occassion because, we could happily mingle with people and use to get a lot of sweets and snacks. On the Independence Day and Republic Day there used to be a lot lot of sports and fun. Till such time population was less, people use to serve community meal on these days to everyone.

My village.

    

As children , we had never seen a Bus, Train or Aircraft. Till 1977, the flight service from Calcutta to Port Blair was from via Rangoon. Since the flight use fly from some distance from our Island, it was always a anxious moment in our mind and heart as to how a air journey could be?

The school at Oral Katcha was upgraded only to a middle school at our time, in 1976, I had to leave Baratang Islands for further studies and came to Port Blair. Thereafter, it was only summer vacation when I could spend some time fishing and in other activities. After having passed the Assistants' Grade Examination, I had to leave Andaman and Nicobar Islands and had to come Delhi to live a life in a metro city. Still the memories are there but I find a lot many things have changed in those Islands. Still the love for each other, harmony, tolerance and togetherness of people in those Islands are not to be found anywhere else. Tsunami in 2005 further damaged the beauty of the place and brought many geographical and ecological changes. My children are fond of my home Island and every alternate year they will insist for a visit.One can see in the photo how they feel happy.